Saturday 4 October 2008
Tashkent to Alice Springs - 22 Sep to 4 Oct
22nd September 2008
Summary: even more frustrating day in Tashkent
Spent the night in a dorm at the train station, sharing with M+A. A and I had to take the kid-sized beds. Had to sleep diagonally and kept hitting my head against the wall every time I moved. In the morning M+A headed to Osh while we set off for the Chinese Embassy yet again. Got there 15 min before opening and added our names to the list. A decent sized crowd had already gathered but it didn't look too bad. Jeremy rocked up a few minutes after us. At opening time a few numbered tickets were handed out but progress was painfully slow, and agents with bags full of passports seemed to be slipping in and out. It became clear we were never going to make it in before closing time (3 hours later). The mob got angrier and yelled at the official who came out at closing time. I would have joined in too if I had a bigger vocab. G was unwell again so rested back at the hotel while I went for lunch. Started to work on Plan B in the afternoon - Darwin, Seoul, Maldives...???
Practicalities: Orzu hotel, room 24
Food: laughman noodles, bibambap
23rd September 2008
Summary: getting to know Tashkent quite well
Headed off to the Kyrgyz Embassy to get our visas, which we will only use if we get into China - 68 dead in a Kyrgyzstan airline crash recently so only want to travel overland through there...Despite getting there shortly after opening the guard put us on a list and told us to come back in the afternoon. Prospects of getting to China were vanishing (as we have to pass through Kyrgyzstan to get to China)...We insisted we needed a same day visa so had to submit the forms in in the morning. He eventually let us enter and of course there were no other customers in the office and our applications were taken immediately (plus double the normal fee for faster processing). Headed off to attempt to enjoy Tashkent, although G was still unwell. Wandered around Chorsu Bazaar - full of fruit, veg, meat etc. Developing a few favourites in Tashkent, in particular a cafe with cheap tea, baklava, free wifi and clean toilets. Spent a fair bit of the afternoon here. Went back to the Kyrgyz embassy to retrieve our Kyrgyz visas without any fuss. On Monday we had been told explicitly to turn up at midnight on Wednesday morning as they would start taking names for the list then. So we dressed warmly and rocked up at 11:30pm. To our horror they had already started taking names and we were only 35th and 36th on the list. Given they got through about 20 numbers on Monday hopes were fading fast...
Food: potato cakes, dried apricots, baklava, banana, hamburger, pasta
24th September 2008
Summary: end of the overland journey
Walked to the Chinese Embassy in silence, knowing that our chances were slim. We found out that the guards had started taking names and $30 bribes on Tuesday morning. The queue was moving faster than Monday so we were relatively hopeful, however a lot of "unlisted" people with sacks of passports seemed to be mysteriously getting in, and by noon it was basically just us 4 foreigners left waiting (to be fair I think some locals just gave up earlier than us). At 12:05pm our overland journey was pronounced dead as the guard shut the door. We were furious at the corruption, incompetence and lack of empathy (they could have processed us all in an extra 20 min) although relieved to at least have some certainty. We raced around to all the airline agencies looking for the soonest flight out of Tashkent, we didn't really care what the destination was, as long as it was in the right general direction. To offset the carbon brownie points we had accumulated in the last couple of months we booked 5 flights: Taskhent->Seoul->Singapore (2 day stopover)->Darwin (top of Australia)->Alice Springs (middle of Australia)->Uluru/Ayers Rock (rock near the middle of Australia). We will then resume our overland journey from Uluru to Sydney. The flights were reassuringly expensive (managed to avoid Uzbekistan Airways) - almost as much as our entire costs for the previous month.
Food: BLT, syrian restaurant - hummous, babaganoush, beef with prunes and apricots, chicken with cheese and mushrooms (and a smiley face)
25th September 2008
Summary: admin and evening flight to Seoul
Spent the day scraping together cash for our flights - Asiana Airlines would not take credit card so we needed over $2k in cash, they even asked for SOM (the local currency) but if you recall the largest note is 70c and we didn't have a bag big enough so we paid them in mostly USD. Also did some admin booking hotels etc for the next few nights of the trip. Our last ludicrous Central Asian experience was buying water at the airport (after emmigration to be fair) to find they did not accept their own currency. The plane was very comfortable and empty so we were able to lie down and get a bit of sleep.
Practicalities: 22:20-08:30 flight to Seoul on Asiana Airlines
Food: lentil soup, rice and chickpeas at our favourite cafe (with the free wifi), hamburgers at our favourite westernised cafe.
26th September 2008
Summary: Incheon Airport and flight to Singapore
Incheon Airport (Seoul) was such a massive contrast to Tashkent it was difficult to believe they were only separated by a 6 hr flight. Earth seems much smaller than before we embarked on this trip. Felt like we were back in the "real" world - sparkling and new, full of designer shops, free (and fast) internet terminals and wifi, coffee chains and plastic covered toilet seats (I am not saying these are all good things). Spent time on the internet planning more of our trip and did some shopping. While waiting to board there was an announcement apologising for a 10 minute delay in the boarding time - we love this place! Got a little sleep and arrived late in the evening in Singapore. It was nice to be somewhere familiar again (and clean, friendly, modern, English-speaking etc etc). The only cities so far on our trip we had previously visited were Paris and Rome.
Practicalities: 16:00-21:25 flight to Singapore on Asiana Airlines, Furama Riverfront, room 1737
Food: Gloria Jeans coffee and ramen noodles at the airport, room service of hamburger and spaghetti bolognese in singapore (better to stick to asian food)
27th September 2008
Summary: retail and food therapy in Singapore
We did most of our sightseeing with our tastebuds - refer to the food section for more information. Had a nice time catching up with Kaz and May. Also visited Florence (our contact at the camera store we frequent in Singapore) and splashed out on a digital SLR and some nice lenses.
Food: PS cafe - scrambled eggs, sausages, tomato, and corn and zucchini blinis with bacon, rocket and poached egg. Hainan chicken rice for dinner, sweetened tofu with gingko nuts and abaling (glutinous rice filled with peanut paste) for dessert.
28th September 2008
Summary: continuation of retail and food therapy
More of the same in Holland Village and Takashimaya. Went back to Kaz's place to chill out before the flight to Darwin. Singapore was hosting the world's first night time F1 race today. In the cab on the way to the airport we heard the deafening roar of the race cars and caught a glimpse of the crowds and even some cars whizzing past.
Practicalities: 2335-0600 Jetstar flight from Singapore to Darwin
Food: kaya toast with soft boiled eggs and tea with condensed milk, crab cooked in butter and white pepper, coconut juice.
29th September 2008
Summary: lots of flights to get to Uluru
Today was a big day as we ticked the box "Australian citizen returning to live in Australia" on our customs form. It felt strange to be in Australia but not Sydney - familiar yet I had never been there before. Had the usual long wait in the quarantine queue. Had another two flights to Alice Springs then Uluru, with good views the entire way, confirming that the NT (Northern Territory) is largely flat, red and deserted, with the odd dried salt seabed and straight road. Caught my first glimpse of the big rock as we landed. Quite amazing given the surrounding countryside was so flat. Picked up our hire car at the airport. We were too tired to do too much so went for a walk around the resort and did some laundry. We are staggered by the price of everything (hotels, groceries, restaurants, bars), not just relative to the dirt cheap countries we had been travelling through, but even compared to London. This might just be because one resort has a monopoly on Uluru (doesn't explain the prices at Darwin Airport though). Had a home-"cooked" meal for the first time since leaving Greece.
Practicalities: 1115-1315 Qantas flight from Darwin to Alice Springs, 1400-1500 Qantas flight from Alice Springs to Uluru, stayed at the Lost Camel Hotel, room 216.
Food: plane and lounge food, home-cooked salad with lettuce, carrot, red pepper/capsicum, tomato and 4 bean mix.
30th September 2008
Summary: walk around Uluru and Kata Tjuta (The Olgas)
Slept in to recover from the flights, then headed off for a long walk (14km, 3-4 hrs) around the base of Uluru. Up close we could really appreciate how massive it was and explore the waterholes and gorges along the base. Didn't see any people at all away from the carparks. The climb was closed to to high winds (although the indigenous population requests you don't climb it at any time anyway). Had a quick rest at the visitor centre then drove to Kata Tjuta for a short walk (2.3km return) into Walpa Gorge. Stopped back at the rock to watch it change colour as the sun set.
Food: chicken sandwich, another home-cooked salad with salmon and corn.
1st October 2008
Summary: Valley of the Winds walk through Kata Tjuta, drive to Kings Canyon
Woke up early for sunrise at Uluru, then headed out for a longer walk (7.6km, 2.5hrs) around Kata Tjuta which was stunning. Had lunch back at the resort then set off for Kings Canyon (300 km). At Curtin Springs petrol station we enquired about the state of a unsealed road we were considering taking to Alice Springs - the lady replied "it's as rough as old sh!t", so guess we won't take it. After dinner on our porch we went to the pub where a live band was singing "Give me a home among the gum trees", while audience members were wearing fuzzy koala hats and dancing badly. Hard to believe we were in Uzbekistan less than a week ago. Could be a good strategy to throw ourselves in the deep end with respect to Australian life. Sydney will feel much more cosmopolitan after a couple of weeks in the Outback.
Practicalities: stayed at Kings Canyon resort, "budget" room 9 (shared bathroom blocks - reminded us of school excursions and family holidays)
Food: chicken baguette, home-cooked salad (beans)
2nd October 2008
Summary: Kings Canyon rim walk
Woke up early-ish again for a walk along the top of Kings Canyon (8km, 3.5 hrs). Scenery is getting more amazing with each walk. This walk had crazy beehive rock formations, up there with Cappadocia for weird. Also an impressive array of plants in the Garden of Eden. Really hot today. Did some washing in the afternoon and it was mostly dry in literally 5 minutes. Saw a baby-eating dingo during dinner.
Food: chicken wrap and chips, "Sounds of Firelight" dinner run by the resort - intimate settng of 5 tables outdoors around a fire - quite unnecessary as it was still so hot, except because of the name they had to have it. 5-6 courses including every species of native flora and fauna imaginable - crocodile, emu, kangaroo, barramundi, koala bear, macadamias, not to mention beef, lobster, prawns...with wines to match. Had not eaten or drunk so much in a long time, we were bursting.
3rd October 2008
Summary: Kathleen Springs walk, drive to Alice Springs
Did a short walk (2.5km) at Kathleen Springs, then set off for the long drive to Alice Springs. Apart from the stunning scenery the most excitement was the occasional bend in the road and roadkill. After a long search for a hotel we were very excited to explore shops such as K-Mart and Woolworths. Really feel like we're home now. Prices have also come down noticeably compared with Uluru.
Practicalities: approx 400km drive from Kings Canyon to Alice Springs. 130km/h speed limit meant we got there pretty quickly. After being turned away from 4 full hotels we finally checked into Elkira (Best Western), room 109.
Food: burger with the lot at a petrol station on the way. Home-cooked salad (salmon).
4th October 2008
Summary: lazy day in Alice Springs, Desert Park
Had a lazy morning exploring the shops and cafes of Alice Springs and doing a few chores. In the afternoon visited the Alice Springs Desert Park. Initially disappointing as we saw very few animals apart from some dopey kangaroos, but picked up with the bird enclosures and all the deadly and/or furry creatures in the nocturnal enclosure.
Food: salad wrap, home-cooked salad (organic chickpeas)
Summary: even more frustrating day in Tashkent
Spent the night in a dorm at the train station, sharing with M+A. A and I had to take the kid-sized beds. Had to sleep diagonally and kept hitting my head against the wall every time I moved. In the morning M+A headed to Osh while we set off for the Chinese Embassy yet again. Got there 15 min before opening and added our names to the list. A decent sized crowd had already gathered but it didn't look too bad. Jeremy rocked up a few minutes after us. At opening time a few numbered tickets were handed out but progress was painfully slow, and agents with bags full of passports seemed to be slipping in and out. It became clear we were never going to make it in before closing time (3 hours later). The mob got angrier and yelled at the official who came out at closing time. I would have joined in too if I had a bigger vocab. G was unwell again so rested back at the hotel while I went for lunch. Started to work on Plan B in the afternoon - Darwin, Seoul, Maldives...???
Practicalities: Orzu hotel, room 24
Food: laughman noodles, bibambap
23rd September 2008
Summary: getting to know Tashkent quite well
Headed off to the Kyrgyz Embassy to get our visas, which we will only use if we get into China - 68 dead in a Kyrgyzstan airline crash recently so only want to travel overland through there...Despite getting there shortly after opening the guard put us on a list and told us to come back in the afternoon. Prospects of getting to China were vanishing (as we have to pass through Kyrgyzstan to get to China)...We insisted we needed a same day visa so had to submit the forms in in the morning. He eventually let us enter and of course there were no other customers in the office and our applications were taken immediately (plus double the normal fee for faster processing). Headed off to attempt to enjoy Tashkent, although G was still unwell. Wandered around Chorsu Bazaar - full of fruit, veg, meat etc. Developing a few favourites in Tashkent, in particular a cafe with cheap tea, baklava, free wifi and clean toilets. Spent a fair bit of the afternoon here. Went back to the Kyrgyz embassy to retrieve our Kyrgyz visas without any fuss. On Monday we had been told explicitly to turn up at midnight on Wednesday morning as they would start taking names for the list then. So we dressed warmly and rocked up at 11:30pm. To our horror they had already started taking names and we were only 35th and 36th on the list. Given they got through about 20 numbers on Monday hopes were fading fast...
Food: potato cakes, dried apricots, baklava, banana, hamburger, pasta
24th September 2008
Summary: end of the overland journey
Walked to the Chinese Embassy in silence, knowing that our chances were slim. We found out that the guards had started taking names and $30 bribes on Tuesday morning. The queue was moving faster than Monday so we were relatively hopeful, however a lot of "unlisted" people with sacks of passports seemed to be mysteriously getting in, and by noon it was basically just us 4 foreigners left waiting (to be fair I think some locals just gave up earlier than us). At 12:05pm our overland journey was pronounced dead as the guard shut the door. We were furious at the corruption, incompetence and lack of empathy (they could have processed us all in an extra 20 min) although relieved to at least have some certainty. We raced around to all the airline agencies looking for the soonest flight out of Tashkent, we didn't really care what the destination was, as long as it was in the right general direction. To offset the carbon brownie points we had accumulated in the last couple of months we booked 5 flights: Taskhent->Seoul->Singapore (2 day stopover)->Darwin (top of Australia)->Alice Springs (middle of Australia)->Uluru/Ayers Rock (rock near the middle of Australia). We will then resume our overland journey from Uluru to Sydney. The flights were reassuringly expensive (managed to avoid Uzbekistan Airways) - almost as much as our entire costs for the previous month.
Food: BLT, syrian restaurant - hummous, babaganoush, beef with prunes and apricots, chicken with cheese and mushrooms (and a smiley face)
25th September 2008
Summary: admin and evening flight to Seoul
Spent the day scraping together cash for our flights - Asiana Airlines would not take credit card so we needed over $2k in cash, they even asked for SOM (the local currency) but if you recall the largest note is 70c and we didn't have a bag big enough so we paid them in mostly USD. Also did some admin booking hotels etc for the next few nights of the trip. Our last ludicrous Central Asian experience was buying water at the airport (after emmigration to be fair) to find they did not accept their own currency. The plane was very comfortable and empty so we were able to lie down and get a bit of sleep.
Practicalities: 22:20-08:30 flight to Seoul on Asiana Airlines
Food: lentil soup, rice and chickpeas at our favourite cafe (with the free wifi), hamburgers at our favourite westernised cafe.
26th September 2008
Summary: Incheon Airport and flight to Singapore
Incheon Airport (Seoul) was such a massive contrast to Tashkent it was difficult to believe they were only separated by a 6 hr flight. Earth seems much smaller than before we embarked on this trip. Felt like we were back in the "real" world - sparkling and new, full of designer shops, free (and fast) internet terminals and wifi, coffee chains and plastic covered toilet seats (I am not saying these are all good things). Spent time on the internet planning more of our trip and did some shopping. While waiting to board there was an announcement apologising for a 10 minute delay in the boarding time - we love this place! Got a little sleep and arrived late in the evening in Singapore. It was nice to be somewhere familiar again (and clean, friendly, modern, English-speaking etc etc). The only cities so far on our trip we had previously visited were Paris and Rome.
Practicalities: 16:00-21:25 flight to Singapore on Asiana Airlines, Furama Riverfront, room 1737
Food: Gloria Jeans coffee and ramen noodles at the airport, room service of hamburger and spaghetti bolognese in singapore (better to stick to asian food)
27th September 2008
Summary: retail and food therapy in Singapore
We did most of our sightseeing with our tastebuds - refer to the food section for more information. Had a nice time catching up with Kaz and May. Also visited Florence (our contact at the camera store we frequent in Singapore) and splashed out on a digital SLR and some nice lenses.
Food: PS cafe - scrambled eggs, sausages, tomato, and corn and zucchini blinis with bacon, rocket and poached egg. Hainan chicken rice for dinner, sweetened tofu with gingko nuts and abaling (glutinous rice filled with peanut paste) for dessert.
28th September 2008
Summary: continuation of retail and food therapy
More of the same in Holland Village and Takashimaya. Went back to Kaz's place to chill out before the flight to Darwin. Singapore was hosting the world's first night time F1 race today. In the cab on the way to the airport we heard the deafening roar of the race cars and caught a glimpse of the crowds and even some cars whizzing past.
Practicalities: 2335-0600 Jetstar flight from Singapore to Darwin
Food: kaya toast with soft boiled eggs and tea with condensed milk, crab cooked in butter and white pepper, coconut juice.
29th September 2008
Summary: lots of flights to get to Uluru
Today was a big day as we ticked the box "Australian citizen returning to live in Australia" on our customs form. It felt strange to be in Australia but not Sydney - familiar yet I had never been there before. Had the usual long wait in the quarantine queue. Had another two flights to Alice Springs then Uluru, with good views the entire way, confirming that the NT (Northern Territory) is largely flat, red and deserted, with the odd dried salt seabed and straight road. Caught my first glimpse of the big rock as we landed. Quite amazing given the surrounding countryside was so flat. Picked up our hire car at the airport. We were too tired to do too much so went for a walk around the resort and did some laundry. We are staggered by the price of everything (hotels, groceries, restaurants, bars), not just relative to the dirt cheap countries we had been travelling through, but even compared to London. This might just be because one resort has a monopoly on Uluru (doesn't explain the prices at Darwin Airport though). Had a home-"cooked" meal for the first time since leaving Greece.
Practicalities: 1115-1315 Qantas flight from Darwin to Alice Springs, 1400-1500 Qantas flight from Alice Springs to Uluru, stayed at the Lost Camel Hotel, room 216.
Food: plane and lounge food, home-cooked salad with lettuce, carrot, red pepper/capsicum, tomato and 4 bean mix.
30th September 2008
Summary: walk around Uluru and Kata Tjuta (The Olgas)
Slept in to recover from the flights, then headed off for a long walk (14km, 3-4 hrs) around the base of Uluru. Up close we could really appreciate how massive it was and explore the waterholes and gorges along the base. Didn't see any people at all away from the carparks. The climb was closed to to high winds (although the indigenous population requests you don't climb it at any time anyway). Had a quick rest at the visitor centre then drove to Kata Tjuta for a short walk (2.3km return) into Walpa Gorge. Stopped back at the rock to watch it change colour as the sun set.
Food: chicken sandwich, another home-cooked salad with salmon and corn.
1st October 2008
Summary: Valley of the Winds walk through Kata Tjuta, drive to Kings Canyon
Woke up early for sunrise at Uluru, then headed out for a longer walk (7.6km, 2.5hrs) around Kata Tjuta which was stunning. Had lunch back at the resort then set off for Kings Canyon (300 km). At Curtin Springs petrol station we enquired about the state of a unsealed road we were considering taking to Alice Springs - the lady replied "it's as rough as old sh!t", so guess we won't take it. After dinner on our porch we went to the pub where a live band was singing "Give me a home among the gum trees", while audience members were wearing fuzzy koala hats and dancing badly. Hard to believe we were in Uzbekistan less than a week ago. Could be a good strategy to throw ourselves in the deep end with respect to Australian life. Sydney will feel much more cosmopolitan after a couple of weeks in the Outback.
Practicalities: stayed at Kings Canyon resort, "budget" room 9 (shared bathroom blocks - reminded us of school excursions and family holidays)
Food: chicken baguette, home-cooked salad (beans)
2nd October 2008
Summary: Kings Canyon rim walk
Woke up early-ish again for a walk along the top of Kings Canyon (8km, 3.5 hrs). Scenery is getting more amazing with each walk. This walk had crazy beehive rock formations, up there with Cappadocia for weird. Also an impressive array of plants in the Garden of Eden. Really hot today. Did some washing in the afternoon and it was mostly dry in literally 5 minutes. Saw a baby-eating dingo during dinner.
Food: chicken wrap and chips, "Sounds of Firelight" dinner run by the resort - intimate settng of 5 tables outdoors around a fire - quite unnecessary as it was still so hot, except because of the name they had to have it. 5-6 courses including every species of native flora and fauna imaginable - crocodile, emu, kangaroo, barramundi, koala bear, macadamias, not to mention beef, lobster, prawns...with wines to match. Had not eaten or drunk so much in a long time, we were bursting.
3rd October 2008
Summary: Kathleen Springs walk, drive to Alice Springs
Did a short walk (2.5km) at Kathleen Springs, then set off for the long drive to Alice Springs. Apart from the stunning scenery the most excitement was the occasional bend in the road and roadkill. After a long search for a hotel we were very excited to explore shops such as K-Mart and Woolworths. Really feel like we're home now. Prices have also come down noticeably compared with Uluru.
Practicalities: approx 400km drive from Kings Canyon to Alice Springs. 130km/h speed limit meant we got there pretty quickly. After being turned away from 4 full hotels we finally checked into Elkira (Best Western), room 109.
Food: burger with the lot at a petrol station on the way. Home-cooked salad (salmon).
4th October 2008
Summary: lazy day in Alice Springs, Desert Park
Had a lazy morning exploring the shops and cafes of Alice Springs and doing a few chores. In the afternoon visited the Alice Springs Desert Park. Initially disappointing as we saw very few animals apart from some dopey kangaroos, but picked up with the bird enclosures and all the deadly and/or furry creatures in the nocturnal enclosure.
Food: salad wrap, home-cooked salad (organic chickpeas)
Tuesday 23 September 2008
Monday 22 September 2008
Khiva to Tashkent - 15 Sep to 22 Sep
15th September 2008
Summary: bus to Bukhara
Ventured outside the walls to the bank to change money while A+M investigated the bus situation to Bukhara. Largest note here is again approx. 70c, although USD is unofficially accepted some larger transactions such as hotels and long taxi rides. G had to return home to recuperate while I updated the blog. The bus was extremely hot with no AC, just fans blowing hot air, and no openable windows. The passengers were predominantly local males and some stripped down to their underwear. Got to watch Russian movies, Uzbek pop music and a Cantonese movie dubbed into Russian, with lots of semi-clad women which the locals were paying close attention to. Part-way through the trip a guy came down the aisle to collect the fares in a plastic bag, as each passenger handed over a sizeable wad of cash ($13 or 18 notes each). Forgot to mention that toilets are getting more and more feral (still not as bad as China, and just the rural ones, in town it's fine). I ran screaming, coughing and spluttering from one in rural Turkmenistan. On the (single) pit-stop on the bus ride we decided to wizz in the bushes in the median strip, based on the stench within a few metres of the official lavatories. Taxi drivers surrounded us as we got off the bus, and after much shouting Anna negotiated a good rate to the hotel, except the cab driver couldn't find it, even after calling the hotel and asking lots of passers-by, shouting across G as he was in the passengers seat. Eventually the hotel owner came and found us parked in a dark alley nearby. More drama inside the hotel. We were ushered into the gorgeous courtyard and then the husband and wife owners started shouting at each other in one of the rooms. Eventually the wife came out looking distinctly hassled and explained that they had not received our phone message. In any case we were happy to settle for a quad room and relocate the next day so not sure what all the fuss was about. She was very sweet but exhausted, gibbering incessantly in Russian, apologising and complaining about her husband while serving us supper and showing us around our room and their collection of antiques (the house is 130 yrs old, and apparently originally owned by a Jewish family). Meanwhile her husband pretty much ignored us and was reclined on a mattress watching a Genesis DVD with a German guest. It was a very surreal evening.
Practicalities: 13:30-21:00 bus from Khiva to Bukhara (we were told it would arrive between 6-8pm), stayed at Akhbar House, sharing a quad room with A+M.
Food: honeydew, Russian biscuits, our first handmade noodles and soup at the pit-stop - yum, light supper courtesy of the hotel of bread, tomatoes and vegetarian comcas. Imodium and gastrolyte for G.
16th September 2008
Summary: Bukhara
More dramas in the morning with changing rooms, laundry etc, and we realised that the previous night's commotion was actually the norm. The lady called a guy to change money for us. He came in with a sack full of cash which we counted in the courtyard. Went out to the train station where A helped us buy tickets to Tashkent. G had to retire again. I went out for a walk on my own and was immediately accosted by a drunk but friendly Russian guy who wanted to talk politics with me - Bill Clinton (did he mean George Bush?) and Iraq was plakhoi (bad) while Obama was harasho (good). I was saved by the hotel lady who happened to be walking past. Went for a walk with G around Lyabi-Hauz - the central plaza with a pool surrounded by plastic camels. Admired the facades of some medressas and mosques. Chatted with A+M back in the hotel courtyard, who taught us how to identify Swiss travellers - they dress for practicality rather than style, and are (overly) conscious of the environment and health. Our own observations are that they avoid Nestle products at all costs. Went out to dinner next to the pool at Lyabi-Hauz with cats and ducks wandering underneath the day-beds we were seated on. Did a survey of water prices at various shops, with M screaming, "you're ripping me off!", at one of them, but to no avail.
Food: yummy breakfast at the hotel - yoghurt drink, peach compote, sweet bread, fried eggs (similar brekkie at the previous hotel), more russian biscuits for lunch. handmade noodle soup for dinner.
17th September 2008
Summary: Bad day in Bukhara
Our bad day in Bukhara started with a shouting match between the hotel owners at around 6am. At 7am G went out to give them a death stare, despite my protests as we were leaving anyway and I didn't want to take the risk of getting hurt. The shouting subsided for a few minutes, then we got a knock on the door - our washing was delivered and we were invited out for breakfast. We declined, and the shouting resumed shortly afterwards. Over breakfast, M+A were unapologetically told that they had to check out as other guests were arriving, even though they had booked a further two nights. This resolved their dilemma of whether they should continue to put up with the chaos. We were all told we could use the rooms until the afternoon, and that they would store our luggage until our evening train ride. As we were checking out we felt it was our duty to express our concerns. A told them politely that the house was lovely but the service was not so good, mentioning the sceaming and not honouring their booking. Akhbar got really angry and started ranting (this was all in Russian btw, but we could understand most of it from the tone and gestures) about us getting upset over a small little scandal (the morning argument) and that tourists were always coming in and taking photos and not paying any money etc etc etc. He then evicted us all immediately, refusing to even mind our bags. M quickly found a nice B+B nearby, and we put our bags in their room. Went to find a teahouse to recuperate. Walked out of a touristy place wanting to charge us $1.80 each for tea, and found a local place where we paid 7c. Ironically it cost 14c to use the public toilet. Tried to buy some bananas but they seemed extortionate at 70c each, walked away in digust. Found a gorgeous minaret, the Kalon (great) minaret. 850 years old and still in great condition with little preservation required. Apparently even Jenghis Khan was so impressed he ordered it not to be destroyed. It was positioned between a mosque and medressa, both with lovely blue tiled facades. The next incident was at the Ark, a small walled town, now mostly ruined with a few museums. We were told that the exhibitions were closed and it was a relatively expensive site so we asked for a discount. They gave us a 10% discount which we assumed was fair, but once inside we found there was absolutely nothing else to see aside from the exhibitions. The ruins were literally piles of dirt, bricks and plastic water bottles. After a short exploration in disbelief that we'd paid to see a rubbish tip we stormed back to the ticket office. Very good timing as M+A had just come in and paid. They immediately got a full refund and we eventually got a partial refund after a lot more shouting. Next we tried to visit the old gaol but it was also closed. Bumped into M+A again and sat down to have lunch. Saw a local with a banana and A ran up to her to check the price. Surprisingly we were not being ripped off, so G went back to buy some. Chatted to some locals. We discovered our Uzbek names are Zhora and Jamilla. Aside from the oriental faces and noodle soups, a further sign that we are getting closer to China is that the locals are spitting, although not as professionally as the Chinese, it's more like a dribble. Bumped into Jeremy who had just arrived and went for another tea with him. Went online again for an ongoing discussion with an agent about our Chinese visa applications. This has been a growing concern during our trip. Prior to leaving London the visa rules were very strict due to the Olympics - hotel and flight bookings are required which we do not have. We were hoping they would be relaxed by now but not so, hence the need to skip through to Tashkent, bypassing Samarkand (we will return) to visit the Chinese embassy. Said our farewells to M+A at the hotel and headed out to the train station for our overnight train, which looked very much like the overnight trains we had caught through Russia (comfortable!).
Practicalities: 19:20-06:00 train from Bukhara to Tashkent.
Food: G is on a bread, banana and black tea diet to get his tummy back into order. I am on the same diet out of sympathy.
18th September 2008
Summary: 70% good, 30% bad day in Tashkent
Had a reasonable night's sleep on the train, with an annoying wake up call 1 hr prior to arrival. Caught the metro to a B+B where they kept telling us "5 min" for our room to be ready. After over 1 hr (they did serve us breakfast) we decided to just leave our bags and head out to the travel agent who we had been discussing our Chinese visa application with. They were very helpful in terms of information but were unfortunately unable to do anything for us. Spent the next 2-3 hours wandering around town looking for internet access to try and prepare our visa application ourselves. First place had a sign saying "Internet" and had a room full of computers, but the bored-looking man minding the room said they had no internet and he didn't know where we could find any. This was one of many similar interactions we've had with locals, we will not be remembering the Uzbeks for their hospitality (although there has been the odd exception). The next place was closed, and the next place was the main internet centre in town, which frustratingly was about to close for the day (it was midday). Started to worry our lousy excuse for not making it to China would be that there was no internet in Tashkent. Finally found another with helpful staff and had a very productive 1.5 hours booking hotels. Amazingly there was also a Uzbekistan Airways ticket office next door with another friendly and helpful guy who could not speak English but called through to head office where an English speaker helped translate our request for an airline booking. At the end of the afternoon we had a very plausible documented itinerary for our China visit so we were feeling happy and optimistic. Splashed out on a night at the opera ($2 each, fancy Russian ice cream - $3). Saw Tosca in Russian, so couldn't understand what was going on, but it was a fun experience all the same. The theatre was ornately decorated, built by Japanese POWs. It would not have looked out of place in a Western country. Back at the hotel we decided we could not stay there another night - it was dirty, virtually a dorm as there was no lock on the door and we had to walk past other sleeping guests to the shared bathroom (fine if we were paying dorm prices but we weren't), there was no water pressure or hot water, and could not control the air-conditioning so spent the night shivering. The conviviality of the owner, as described in LP, consisted of constantly offering us beer, vodka or drugs, which did not make up for the poor amenities. Yet another LP "our pick" which we were less than impressed with.
Practicalities: B+B Ali Tour, room 4
Food: more bread, bananas, tea. Dinner of bibimbap at a Korean restaurant (lots of ethnic Koreans here for some reason).
19th September 2008
Summary: frustrating day in Tashkent
Early morning walk to the Chinese embassy. We were looking forward to at least having more certainty about the rest of our trip - currently we're not sure if we'll be in Kashgar (China), Kyrgyzstan or Darwin next weekend. Waited for 1 hour for it to open, before discovering it was not opening at all due to an exhibition. Note that it's normal opening hours are already a pitiful 3 mornings a week. Very annoyed, we stomped off to the Kyrgyz embassy, who were open but closed in the afternoon so could not issue us a same day visa. There were no earlier train options to Samarkand so we then spent 3 hours looking for a new hotel, finally finding a better though much pricier option. Had a painful conversation with the Home Office (back in UK) regarding my citizenhip application. Long and frustrating story which I will not go into but I had to re-sign and date a form and fax it to the British Embassy in Tashkent (of course they would not let me fax it directly to them in UK, that just wouldn't be acceptable). Enough ranting, another little cultural anecdote for you - in supermarkets in Tashkent they have sweets in the till whch they give as change for amounts less than 100 som (7c). We are wondering if we can also pay in sweets. We also handed over 100 som for a photocopy which cost 50 som, the lady offered to give us two photocopies as she didn't have change, but we told her just to keep it. After over two months of relentless hot weather the overnight temperature is now plummetting. Just a few nights ago we were dining outside comfortably in t-shirts, now it is nippy even while wearing a jacket. It is still quite hot during the day in the sunshine although definitely easing off.
Practicalities: Orzu Hotel, room 21, paid by credit card, great to be using plastic again!
Food: beef stroganoff, lamb shashlik. Went to a great (slightly below average by western standards) Italian restaurant for dinner - lentil soup (similar to our London flatmate's), fettucine amatriciana and spaghetti with tomato and basil. G had local wine. Good news - G's tummy is much better and his back pain is virtually gone!
20th September 2008
Summary: Samarkand
We were intercepted by a representative from the LP hotel pick for Samarkand. Having been unhappy with the previous two picks we were wary but he seemed friendly, helped us buy our return tickets, and offered us a lift to the hotel, so we decided it wouldn't hurt to have a look. Turned out to be third time lucky - there was a lovely courtyard full of flowers and fruit trees (mulberry and quince - from which they made jam which they served for breakfast), simple but nice room, and the staff were extremely friendly and helpful. Headed straight out to the Registan - 3 grand medressas arranged around a large square with spectacular domes and tilework. Bumped into Jeremy at an internet cafe who told us that he, M+A were all staying at the same hotel as us. After a nap we explored Timur's mausoleum (another grand turquoise dome) and went for a walk through the park. The hotel arranged dinner at a nearby home which 14 of us (including all of Team Turkmenistan, a group of young German guys, and two other Aussies) attended. Had a nice night exchanging travel stories and coincidentally there was a lot of overlap in professions.
Practicalities: 07:00-10:30 train to Samarkand, stayed at Antica, room 6
Food: laughman noodles and plov, dinner at a family home - assorted appetisers, chickpea soup, plov and melon.
21st September 2008
Summary: Samarkand, return to Tashkent
Decided the overnight train back to Tashkent which we had booked (00:50-06:00) would be torture so Denis (the guy who picked us up yesterday) helped us change our tickets to an earlier train to arrive in the evening. Had a busy day of sightseeing - more domes and blue tilework at the mosques and mausoleums. Got fed up with the inflated/imaginary tourist admission prices (up to 10x local prices) so started bargaining with some success. Visited the bazaar which was incredibly clean and orderly, with marble benchtops and fresh fruit and vegetables for sale. Also visited the museum which had photos of Samarkand before and after a recent restoration effort - some buildings are virtually completely rebuilt. There was also a fantastic exhibition of photos of Uzbekistan by a Japanese photographer (www.jinakino.com). Met M+A back at the hotel and shared a cab to the train station.
Practicalities: 17:00-20:30 train to Tashkent
Food: yummy breakfast at the hotel - rice pudding, yoghurt, deepfried courgette and cheese patties, homemade jam. bread, bananas, pumpkin comcas.
Summary: bus to Bukhara
Ventured outside the walls to the bank to change money while A+M investigated the bus situation to Bukhara. Largest note here is again approx. 70c, although USD is unofficially accepted some larger transactions such as hotels and long taxi rides. G had to return home to recuperate while I updated the blog. The bus was extremely hot with no AC, just fans blowing hot air, and no openable windows. The passengers were predominantly local males and some stripped down to their underwear. Got to watch Russian movies, Uzbek pop music and a Cantonese movie dubbed into Russian, with lots of semi-clad women which the locals were paying close attention to. Part-way through the trip a guy came down the aisle to collect the fares in a plastic bag, as each passenger handed over a sizeable wad of cash ($13 or 18 notes each). Forgot to mention that toilets are getting more and more feral (still not as bad as China, and just the rural ones, in town it's fine). I ran screaming, coughing and spluttering from one in rural Turkmenistan. On the (single) pit-stop on the bus ride we decided to wizz in the bushes in the median strip, based on the stench within a few metres of the official lavatories. Taxi drivers surrounded us as we got off the bus, and after much shouting Anna negotiated a good rate to the hotel, except the cab driver couldn't find it, even after calling the hotel and asking lots of passers-by, shouting across G as he was in the passengers seat. Eventually the hotel owner came and found us parked in a dark alley nearby. More drama inside the hotel. We were ushered into the gorgeous courtyard and then the husband and wife owners started shouting at each other in one of the rooms. Eventually the wife came out looking distinctly hassled and explained that they had not received our phone message. In any case we were happy to settle for a quad room and relocate the next day so not sure what all the fuss was about. She was very sweet but exhausted, gibbering incessantly in Russian, apologising and complaining about her husband while serving us supper and showing us around our room and their collection of antiques (the house is 130 yrs old, and apparently originally owned by a Jewish family). Meanwhile her husband pretty much ignored us and was reclined on a mattress watching a Genesis DVD with a German guest. It was a very surreal evening.
Practicalities: 13:30-21:00 bus from Khiva to Bukhara (we were told it would arrive between 6-8pm), stayed at Akhbar House, sharing a quad room with A+M.
Food: honeydew, Russian biscuits, our first handmade noodles and soup at the pit-stop - yum, light supper courtesy of the hotel of bread, tomatoes and vegetarian comcas. Imodium and gastrolyte for G.
16th September 2008
Summary: Bukhara
More dramas in the morning with changing rooms, laundry etc, and we realised that the previous night's commotion was actually the norm. The lady called a guy to change money for us. He came in with a sack full of cash which we counted in the courtyard. Went out to the train station where A helped us buy tickets to Tashkent. G had to retire again. I went out for a walk on my own and was immediately accosted by a drunk but friendly Russian guy who wanted to talk politics with me - Bill Clinton (did he mean George Bush?) and Iraq was plakhoi (bad) while Obama was harasho (good). I was saved by the hotel lady who happened to be walking past. Went for a walk with G around Lyabi-Hauz - the central plaza with a pool surrounded by plastic camels. Admired the facades of some medressas and mosques. Chatted with A+M back in the hotel courtyard, who taught us how to identify Swiss travellers - they dress for practicality rather than style, and are (overly) conscious of the environment and health. Our own observations are that they avoid Nestle products at all costs. Went out to dinner next to the pool at Lyabi-Hauz with cats and ducks wandering underneath the day-beds we were seated on. Did a survey of water prices at various shops, with M screaming, "you're ripping me off!", at one of them, but to no avail.
Food: yummy breakfast at the hotel - yoghurt drink, peach compote, sweet bread, fried eggs (similar brekkie at the previous hotel), more russian biscuits for lunch. handmade noodle soup for dinner.
17th September 2008
Summary: Bad day in Bukhara
Our bad day in Bukhara started with a shouting match between the hotel owners at around 6am. At 7am G went out to give them a death stare, despite my protests as we were leaving anyway and I didn't want to take the risk of getting hurt. The shouting subsided for a few minutes, then we got a knock on the door - our washing was delivered and we were invited out for breakfast. We declined, and the shouting resumed shortly afterwards. Over breakfast, M+A were unapologetically told that they had to check out as other guests were arriving, even though they had booked a further two nights. This resolved their dilemma of whether they should continue to put up with the chaos. We were all told we could use the rooms until the afternoon, and that they would store our luggage until our evening train ride. As we were checking out we felt it was our duty to express our concerns. A told them politely that the house was lovely but the service was not so good, mentioning the sceaming and not honouring their booking. Akhbar got really angry and started ranting (this was all in Russian btw, but we could understand most of it from the tone and gestures) about us getting upset over a small little scandal (the morning argument) and that tourists were always coming in and taking photos and not paying any money etc etc etc. He then evicted us all immediately, refusing to even mind our bags. M quickly found a nice B+B nearby, and we put our bags in their room. Went to find a teahouse to recuperate. Walked out of a touristy place wanting to charge us $1.80 each for tea, and found a local place where we paid 7c. Ironically it cost 14c to use the public toilet. Tried to buy some bananas but they seemed extortionate at 70c each, walked away in digust. Found a gorgeous minaret, the Kalon (great) minaret. 850 years old and still in great condition with little preservation required. Apparently even Jenghis Khan was so impressed he ordered it not to be destroyed. It was positioned between a mosque and medressa, both with lovely blue tiled facades. The next incident was at the Ark, a small walled town, now mostly ruined with a few museums. We were told that the exhibitions were closed and it was a relatively expensive site so we asked for a discount. They gave us a 10% discount which we assumed was fair, but once inside we found there was absolutely nothing else to see aside from the exhibitions. The ruins were literally piles of dirt, bricks and plastic water bottles. After a short exploration in disbelief that we'd paid to see a rubbish tip we stormed back to the ticket office. Very good timing as M+A had just come in and paid. They immediately got a full refund and we eventually got a partial refund after a lot more shouting. Next we tried to visit the old gaol but it was also closed. Bumped into M+A again and sat down to have lunch. Saw a local with a banana and A ran up to her to check the price. Surprisingly we were not being ripped off, so G went back to buy some. Chatted to some locals. We discovered our Uzbek names are Zhora and Jamilla. Aside from the oriental faces and noodle soups, a further sign that we are getting closer to China is that the locals are spitting, although not as professionally as the Chinese, it's more like a dribble. Bumped into Jeremy who had just arrived and went for another tea with him. Went online again for an ongoing discussion with an agent about our Chinese visa applications. This has been a growing concern during our trip. Prior to leaving London the visa rules were very strict due to the Olympics - hotel and flight bookings are required which we do not have. We were hoping they would be relaxed by now but not so, hence the need to skip through to Tashkent, bypassing Samarkand (we will return) to visit the Chinese embassy. Said our farewells to M+A at the hotel and headed out to the train station for our overnight train, which looked very much like the overnight trains we had caught through Russia (comfortable!).
Practicalities: 19:20-06:00 train from Bukhara to Tashkent.
Food: G is on a bread, banana and black tea diet to get his tummy back into order. I am on the same diet out of sympathy.
18th September 2008
Summary: 70% good, 30% bad day in Tashkent
Had a reasonable night's sleep on the train, with an annoying wake up call 1 hr prior to arrival. Caught the metro to a B+B where they kept telling us "5 min" for our room to be ready. After over 1 hr (they did serve us breakfast) we decided to just leave our bags and head out to the travel agent who we had been discussing our Chinese visa application with. They were very helpful in terms of information but were unfortunately unable to do anything for us. Spent the next 2-3 hours wandering around town looking for internet access to try and prepare our visa application ourselves. First place had a sign saying "Internet" and had a room full of computers, but the bored-looking man minding the room said they had no internet and he didn't know where we could find any. This was one of many similar interactions we've had with locals, we will not be remembering the Uzbeks for their hospitality (although there has been the odd exception). The next place was closed, and the next place was the main internet centre in town, which frustratingly was about to close for the day (it was midday). Started to worry our lousy excuse for not making it to China would be that there was no internet in Tashkent. Finally found another with helpful staff and had a very productive 1.5 hours booking hotels. Amazingly there was also a Uzbekistan Airways ticket office next door with another friendly and helpful guy who could not speak English but called through to head office where an English speaker helped translate our request for an airline booking. At the end of the afternoon we had a very plausible documented itinerary for our China visit so we were feeling happy and optimistic. Splashed out on a night at the opera ($2 each, fancy Russian ice cream - $3). Saw Tosca in Russian, so couldn't understand what was going on, but it was a fun experience all the same. The theatre was ornately decorated, built by Japanese POWs. It would not have looked out of place in a Western country. Back at the hotel we decided we could not stay there another night - it was dirty, virtually a dorm as there was no lock on the door and we had to walk past other sleeping guests to the shared bathroom (fine if we were paying dorm prices but we weren't), there was no water pressure or hot water, and could not control the air-conditioning so spent the night shivering. The conviviality of the owner, as described in LP, consisted of constantly offering us beer, vodka or drugs, which did not make up for the poor amenities. Yet another LP "our pick" which we were less than impressed with.
Practicalities: B+B Ali Tour, room 4
Food: more bread, bananas, tea. Dinner of bibimbap at a Korean restaurant (lots of ethnic Koreans here for some reason).
19th September 2008
Summary: frustrating day in Tashkent
Early morning walk to the Chinese embassy. We were looking forward to at least having more certainty about the rest of our trip - currently we're not sure if we'll be in Kashgar (China), Kyrgyzstan or Darwin next weekend. Waited for 1 hour for it to open, before discovering it was not opening at all due to an exhibition. Note that it's normal opening hours are already a pitiful 3 mornings a week. Very annoyed, we stomped off to the Kyrgyz embassy, who were open but closed in the afternoon so could not issue us a same day visa. There were no earlier train options to Samarkand so we then spent 3 hours looking for a new hotel, finally finding a better though much pricier option. Had a painful conversation with the Home Office (back in UK) regarding my citizenhip application. Long and frustrating story which I will not go into but I had to re-sign and date a form and fax it to the British Embassy in Tashkent (of course they would not let me fax it directly to them in UK, that just wouldn't be acceptable). Enough ranting, another little cultural anecdote for you - in supermarkets in Tashkent they have sweets in the till whch they give as change for amounts less than 100 som (7c). We are wondering if we can also pay in sweets. We also handed over 100 som for a photocopy which cost 50 som, the lady offered to give us two photocopies as she didn't have change, but we told her just to keep it. After over two months of relentless hot weather the overnight temperature is now plummetting. Just a few nights ago we were dining outside comfortably in t-shirts, now it is nippy even while wearing a jacket. It is still quite hot during the day in the sunshine although definitely easing off.
Practicalities: Orzu Hotel, room 21, paid by credit card, great to be using plastic again!
Food: beef stroganoff, lamb shashlik. Went to a great (slightly below average by western standards) Italian restaurant for dinner - lentil soup (similar to our London flatmate's), fettucine amatriciana and spaghetti with tomato and basil. G had local wine. Good news - G's tummy is much better and his back pain is virtually gone!
20th September 2008
Summary: Samarkand
We were intercepted by a representative from the LP hotel pick for Samarkand. Having been unhappy with the previous two picks we were wary but he seemed friendly, helped us buy our return tickets, and offered us a lift to the hotel, so we decided it wouldn't hurt to have a look. Turned out to be third time lucky - there was a lovely courtyard full of flowers and fruit trees (mulberry and quince - from which they made jam which they served for breakfast), simple but nice room, and the staff were extremely friendly and helpful. Headed straight out to the Registan - 3 grand medressas arranged around a large square with spectacular domes and tilework. Bumped into Jeremy at an internet cafe who told us that he, M+A were all staying at the same hotel as us. After a nap we explored Timur's mausoleum (another grand turquoise dome) and went for a walk through the park. The hotel arranged dinner at a nearby home which 14 of us (including all of Team Turkmenistan, a group of young German guys, and two other Aussies) attended. Had a nice night exchanging travel stories and coincidentally there was a lot of overlap in professions.
Practicalities: 07:00-10:30 train to Samarkand, stayed at Antica, room 6
Food: laughman noodles and plov, dinner at a family home - assorted appetisers, chickpea soup, plov and melon.
21st September 2008
Summary: Samarkand, return to Tashkent
Decided the overnight train back to Tashkent which we had booked (00:50-06:00) would be torture so Denis (the guy who picked us up yesterday) helped us change our tickets to an earlier train to arrive in the evening. Had a busy day of sightseeing - more domes and blue tilework at the mosques and mausoleums. Got fed up with the inflated/imaginary tourist admission prices (up to 10x local prices) so started bargaining with some success. Visited the bazaar which was incredibly clean and orderly, with marble benchtops and fresh fruit and vegetables for sale. Also visited the museum which had photos of Samarkand before and after a recent restoration effort - some buildings are virtually completely rebuilt. There was also a fantastic exhibition of photos of Uzbekistan by a Japanese photographer (www.jinakino.com). Met M+A back at the hotel and shared a cab to the train station.
Practicalities: 17:00-20:30 train to Tashkent
Food: yummy breakfast at the hotel - rice pudding, yoghurt, deepfried courgette and cheese patties, homemade jam. bread, bananas, pumpkin comcas.
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