Selcuk to Cappadocia - 12 Aug to 19 Aug

12th August 2008


Summary: Selcuk, Ephesus


Went to the Ephesus Museum to do some research prior to our visit to Ephesus. As with Naples/Pompeii alot of the sculptures etc were in the museum. G got his first Turkish shoe shine afterwards. The guy shook his head sadly to indicate he couldn't do anything for my flip flops. Visited the ruins of the Basilica of St John on Ayasoluk Hill. Did a pilgrimmage out to Meryemana, thought to be where the Virgin Mary lived her last years. Afterwards went for a late aftenoon stroll through Ephesus, a large well preserved ancient city which rivals (some would say tops - I don't want to make a call) Pompeii. Highlights were the mosaics in the terrace houses and the library facade. Walked back into town along an mulberry tree lined avenue and bought some figs and peaches from an orchard along the way.


Food: humus, stuffed peppers and aubergine. turkish pizza on the roof terrace. G's first beer in a month.


13th August 2008


Summary: not much


Having had such an efficient day yesterday today has been a rest and admin day - our hotel bookings have almost run out, and trying to suss out Chinese embassies in Tashkent/Bishkek. Also discovered we will be in Iran during Ramadan - duh! Got sidetracked on the way to lunch by ice cream with Jimmy, Juju and other guests. Found out too late (they were leaving) that one of the guests was Iranian. Thought she was a local as she spoke perfect Turkish. G had his first Turkish haircut and shave since the one he had in London just before we left - he was very pleased and smooth afterwards. Had an interesting experience changing money at a jeweller's shop - their rates are much better than banks.


Food: mixture of home-cooked food near the hotel. Our former title holder of world's best kebab (Old St London) has been replaced by Gaziantep in Selcuk - had a yummy adana kebab - a spicy (but not hot) mixed kebab - delicious. More baklava from Ustam Baklaverria (not sure that's a proper Turkish word).


Turkish haircut notes from G: Number 1 with clippers followed by shave, second shave, eyebrow trim, flaming taper to get rid of fuzz, hair wash, and finished up with a scalp, shoulder, back and arm massage.


14th August 2008


Summary: Pamukkale


Had a theological discussion over breakfast. Juju told me that teeth were proof of the existence of God. G agreed. I almost choked on my Turkish tea. Had a 3.5 hour bumpy bus ride to Pamukkale. Halfway during the trip the steward served cake and drinks - awesome! Lunched at our hotel. It was so hot that even sitting in the shade sapped all our energy so we retreated to our air-conditioned room. Ventured out again at 5pm and it was still sweltering (45 degrees+). Our water was hotter than us by the time we drank it. Made it up to the travertines and removed our shoes to walk through the pools. Not quite as spectacular as the pictures as alot of the pools are dry, but still bizarre and quite an experience to walk through them barefoot (good exfoliation too). The ruins at Hierapolis were an added bonus. Highlight was a well preserved roman theatre, including the stage. Surrounding hillside also gorgeous. Stayed to watch the sun set over the travertines when they look at their best - check out the photos.


Practicalities: 09:00-12:30 bus to Pammukale. Staying at Venus Hotel, room 51.


Food: lamb kebab, salad, borek, cacik (similar to tzaziki) for lunch, chicken kebab and meat balls for dinner (ran out of fish :().


15th August 2008


Summary: bus to Konya


Bodily aromas on the dolmus to Denizli reminded me of Dan. The long bus ride went fairly quickly with more snacks and drinks and Rush Hour 3 dubbed into Turkish. We appeared to be the only tourists on the bus. Unfortunately we didn't realise the only food stop was the first one, where we didn't get any food. Konya is home of the whirling dervishes and is a relatively conservative city in western Turkey - about 50% of women were in headscarfs and well covered up, some in denim and/or trenchcoats. Don't know how they do it in temperatures of 30+. We arrived too late to do anything apart from a walk around town. Quite liked it - seemed clean, friendly, had a nice central park and very few tourists. Decided G is now officially off-white.


Practicalities: 10am dolmus to Denizli, then 11:00-18:00 bus to Konya, tram to town centre. Stayed at Ulusan Hotel, room 22. Our first shared bathroom. Very clean.


Food: muesli bars, nuts, dried fruit on the bus, Firin kebab and lamb kebab.


16th August 2008


Summary: Mevlana Museum, bus to Urgup


Had our first annoying Turk today. A guy insisted on followng us around the Mevlana Museum and gibbering and then charged 20 YTL for the privilege. I had to go through again by myself to enjoy it properly. It was a small but good museum containing the tomb of the Mevlana and various items such as huge coils of rosary beads (990 beads!), illuminated Korans and precious carpets. A lot of the visitors were pilgrims. Also had the best line of the trip after leaving the museum - a young guy approached us and said "You've just been to see the number one site in Konya, now you're going to see the second most important site...my carpet shop!". Wandered around to some of the other mosques but mostly just admired the facades. Had an eventful bus trip to Nevsehir (Cappadocia), including driving through a willy-willy and a young kid vomitting very close to G's feet. Had a nice chat with Eren, the hotel owner. Discovered she and G were on adjacent Exodus buses going through China 7 years ago. Freaky!


Practicalities: 14:00 bus to Nevsehir, minibus to Urgup, trek up to the hotel - Serinn Hotel.


17th August 2008


Summary: hot air balloon ride, walk with Mehmet


Woke up at 4:30am for our balloon ride over Cappadocia. Pretty cool (and a bit scary) being 1km up in the air, although think we were unlucky with the winds and we were unable to get close to the interesting rock formations. It was surprisingly calm and didn't notice the ascents/descents even though they were quite fast. Our basket and balloon was virtually brand new which was simultaneously nice but unnerving. The owner of the company which manufactured it came along for the ride. All the locals came over to watch as we landed in a field in a small village. Met a lovely Argentinian couple, Julian and Belen, who were also staying at our hotel - they are the dog's bollocks of travel companions http://www.phrases.org.uk/meanings/dog's%20bollocks.html). Went on a guided walk with them through the rose valley, climbing into pigeon houses and cave churches, and picking and eating fresh walnuts and hazelnuts. Scenery was absolutely stunning. Our guide, Mehmet, knew the area back to front and was full of information, including philisophical anecdotes involving grilled bananas with chocolate. Went into Urgup for dinner with J+B and an Italian couple.


Food: turkish pizzas, salad and icecream.


18th August 2008


Summary: Goreme Open Air Museum, more walking


Spent the day with J+B again. Mustafa from the hotel drove us into town in the Mustafa-mobile (has "Mustafa" across the windshield) to go to the Goreme Open Air Museum where we explored the cave churches, some covered in frescoes. Did a self-guided walk through Zemi Valley, again getting pretty lost and exhausted and covering almost double the expected distance. Picked grapes and plums for sustenance along the way. Finally made it to Uchisar where we stopped for a drink. Revived by our cokes and the fading sun we virtually ran through Pigeon Valley back to Goreme. There was one confusing part of the walk crossing a deep ravine where we collected a few other lost walkers - American and French. Eventually found a safe way across. Entering Goreme we saw an old man sitting on the kerb, looking strained, clenching his fists and making a flatulence sound. I was thinking the poor guy was senile, however after walking another few metres I realised there was a young boy sitting next to him and he was teaching him how to go to the toilet. We looked at each other and burst out laughing. Stopped for beers in Goreme. The French couple who followed us across the ravine joined us. The Americans who turned back to the road also walked past and were disappointed to hear they missed out on the rest of the walk. One of the guys working at the cafe pointed at G's head and said "melon!".


Food: homemade LENTIL SOUP and takeaway pide on the balcony at the hotel.


19th August 2008


Summary: hotel room


Have picked up a bit of a bug. Will spare you the details but am spending most of the day in the hotel room. G is fine and looking after me *aaawwww*.


Food: Gastrolite