Shiraz to Khiva - 4 Sep to 14 Sep

4th September 2008

Summary: Naqsh-e-Rostam, Persepolis

We had only one other tourist (an Iranian) on our tour of Persepolis. First stop was Naqsh-e-Rostam - where 4 of the first Persian kings were entombed in caves in the side of a mountain. Next up was Persepolis - ruins of a palace dating back to 500BC, which had amazing carved reliefs, including a procession of gift bearers from all the countries within the empire. Pleasant surprise in the afternoon with a phone call from Alberto who had arrived in Shiraz. On top of that he had brought Mohammed with him! Had afternoon tea with them in our hotel foyer. Felt rather bourgeois (again) as we were surrounded by marble, billiard tables and piano music. Went our separate ways (we checked out the nearby fort) and joined up again for dinner. Mohammed had managed to pick up more tourists in between so there were 6 of us altogether.

Food: bread and nectarines in the hotel room, kebabs for dinner, tried to have a juice but got chased out of the shop by the Ramazan police

5th September 2008

Summary: bus ride to Yazd

Had an early morning bus ride to Yazd through the Lut Desert. Unfortunately our hotel of choice had run out of double rooms. Since it had a gorgeous courtyard and we felt we had to live a simpler life, we decided to try the dorm. It was a sufficiently nice subterranean room, although G did not even have a bed, just a 2 foot wide ledge which ran along one side of the room (6 beds and two ledge positions in total). Felt very grounded. Got settled in the courtyard and spent most of the afternoon chatting with the other guests. In Esfahan we kept crossing paths with a Swiss couple, often enough that we would smile and say hi, although never for long enough to introduce ourselves properly. Anyway they were also staying at the same hotel in Yazd so finally exchanged names and after some discussion we realised that we would all be on the same tour of Turkmenistan! Given the small number of independent travellers in Iran, and their tendency to congregate at the same Lonely Planet-recommended hotels, we also asked around to see if anyone had met Jeremy, the fifth and final member of our tour. Sure enough Peter (Australian Salvos minister working in UK) had met a Jeremy in Esfahan, who had apparently had some luck with a local girl there so was staying there longer than anticipated - hope he makes it to Turkmenistan! Shared a cab with Peter and Ben (UK architecture student) and went out at sunset to the Tower of Silence - two Zoroastrian mounds where corpses were laid for the vultures to pick at. The landscape was other-worldly and It was very peaceful despite the young local lads tearing about on motorbikes. Had a rather scary ride back to the hotel, suspect the taxi driver was hungry as it was almost "break fast" time. Dale (Australian, almost full-time traveller) joined the four of us for dinner, resulting in lots of Aussie banter.

Practicalities: 07:30-13:30 bus to Yazd, stayed at the Silk Road Hotel dormitory

Food: vegetable soup, vegetarian curry and aubergine and tomato, Iranian buffet for dinner.

6th September 2008

Summary: old town, Ateshkadeh

Alberto and Mohammed emerged while we were having breakfast. They had arrived early in the morning. More silly rules meant that Mohammed had to sleep on the roof as Iranians cannot sleep in mixed dorms. More specifically - mixed dorms are illegal but they turn a blind eye if they only contain foreigners. Went out for a wander around the old town, full of buildings made of mud and straw, apparently one of the oldest cities in the world. Checked out Alexander's Prison, with a sketchy link to Alexander the Great, where we stood under a wind tower (these are all over Yazd) and felt the cool breeze coming down. Also popped into Khan-e Lari - a restored traditional house which was frankly not particularly nicer than our hotel. Walked through the bazaar to find a restored hammam for lunch - may have been a bit too restored, was a bit like an indoor swimming pool with blue and white tiles. Over afternoon tea (at a nice traditional house, now hotel) Father Peter told us one of his friend's definitions of heaven was being in a permanent state of that moment of euphoria after doing a big poo. Thought of S. After lunch went for a long wallk to see Ateshkadeh - a Zoroastrian fire temple containing a flame which had alledgedly been burning for over 1500 years. To get home we sent Mohammed out to the street to flag down a taxi while we hid, giggling behind a wall, in order not to get ripped off.

Food: aubergine, dizi (veg and meat stew) and meatballs, although the restaurant would not serve tea because it was Ramazan (??), Iranian buffet again.

7th September 2008

Summary: Jameh Mosque, Amir Chakhmaq Complex, overnight train to Mashhad

Wandered out to do some chores and finish off the sightseeing. Climbed the Amir Chakhmaq Complex (building used to commemorate death of Imam Hossein) and popped into the Jameh Mosque. Saw lots of camel butcheries but couldn't find any camel burgers. Chilled out back at the hotel, chatting with Andy, an English motorcyclist who was riding across the world. Set off way too early for our train (on the hotel's advice). Watched the desert go by until the sun set. Much more luxurious cabin than last time - a spacious 4-berth cabin with two flat-screen TVs, tea cups and snacks. Went head-scarf free for two hours until 2 guys joined our cabin at a later stop - duh! Mr Bean was shown on the flat screens.

Practicalities: 18:25-09:30 train to Mashhad

Food: barley soup, aubergine and tomato, fruit salad, chicken on the train for dinner

8th September 2008

Summary: Astan-e Qods-e Razavi (holy shrine of Imam Reza), dinner with Vali

Mashhad is apparently the most holy city in Iran and a busy pilgrimmage site as it is home to the holy shrine of Imam Reza. Despite the crowds at the station we had a very efficient trip to the hotel. Did a few chores and had a rest. Jeremy called us in the afternoon and we visited the holy shrine together. There were attendants carrying feather dusters to clean people's clothes in the lead-up to the shrine. Could not believe I had to don my first chador over my already hejab-compliant outfit, while Jeremy was allowed in wearing a t-shirt which read "Save a horse - ride an actuary". I had to ask the "Chador Office" attendant for help to put it on, though it was essentially just a big black sheet. We were not allowed into the shrine itself but enjoyed wandering around the huge complex surrounding it - a series of courtyards, mosques, museums etc - admiring the architecture and patterned tiles and watching the pilgrims kissing the doors and sitting on carpets in the courtyards. We met a local guide named Vali who helped us book a car to the Turkmenistan border and also invited us to his home for a delicious home-cooked meal (for a small fee of course), sitting on carpets on his outdoor terrace.

Practicalities: stayed at Taranom Apartment Hotel, room 801

Food: bread, bananas, dinner at Vali's - barley soup, spinach pancakes, yoghurt and yoghurt drink.

9th September 2008

Summary: border crossing to Turkmenistan, Merv

Had an early start to make it to the border for the 11am commencement of our tour. Exiting Iran took 30 min. Very few people but for some reason there was a lot of paperwork, and frustrating conversations along the lines of, "Name?" "Julie Young" "Surname Julie?" "No, surname Young" "Young?" "Yes" "Name Julie?" "Yes, name Julie, surname Young" "Name Young?" "SURNAME Young!" "Name Young?" etc etc. Finally got through to face the two kilometre walk through no-man's land. Walked across a bridge over a dry riverbed with huge trucks crossing in both directions. Faces changed immediately on the other side, the Turkmen border guards looking much more Oriental than Iranian. We established, with some basic Russian and hand waving, that we were not allowed to walk any further, reason unclear, and we had to take a bus. We had no money (in the required currency) so they let us ride for free. We squatted in the back of a seatless minivan for the short but bumpy ride to the Turkmen border office. I won the competition to be the first one to say "shto??" ("what??" in Russian), when one of the guards came over to us, said one word to us and then just stared. Waited around for quite a while, unsure of what was going on. The guards were fairly friendly, asking where we were from. We were worried as we had heard stories about having to pay bribes to get through but we didn't have any problems. Finally removed my headscarf when I saw a female guard without one. A guy in a white doctor's coat came out holding our passports and we got concerned, however he showed no interest in us. Eventually our guide, Maksat, came through to meet us, helped us fill in the forms, and we were through in 1.5 hours in total. Got another stack of cash, largest note is worth about 70c. It was around this point that G's back gave in for no apparent reason, and he was horizontal for most of the long and bumpy ride to Merv - a once great city on the Silk Road, but destroyed by Jenghis Khan. Explored the mausoleums, mosques and ruined fortresses, and then headed to Mary for the night.

Practicalities: 06:30-09:30 drive to Saraghs (including breakfast stop), stayed at Rahat Hotel, room 7, in Mary (town near Merv)

Food: fried fish and legumes and noodles at a roadside cafe (G had first beer since Tehran), yummy lamb shashlyk near hotel

10th September 2008

Summary: Manar Baba, Ashgabat

G's back was still very sore so he was horizontal again. Another long day of driving, stopping at the occasional site. First up was Manar Baba, a mausoleum. Next the ruins of a village razed by Jenghis Khan, and finally the remains of a mosque near Ashgabat which collapsed after a huge earthquake in 1948 (which also flattened Ashgabat). G perked up with some Nick Cave and was upright from the latter part of the drive. There was a sudden transition from desert to gleaming marble buildings, leafy parks, glistening fountains and good roads as we arrived in Ashgabat.

Practicalities: Hotel Aziya, room 1001

Food: soup containing unidentifiable animal parts, chicken, pelmeni, chicken and apricot plov (bit like risotto)

11th September 2008

Summary: Tolkuchka Bazaar, Arch of Neutrality

Decided to try our luck at the Chinese Embassy as it was close to the hotel, but it was closed. Got caught in a brief but heavy downpour on the way back (who said it wouldn't rain in Turkmenistan). Visited the Tolkuchka Bazaar, set in the desert on the outskirts of town, which was fantastic. Full of locals - the men in fur hats and the women in their colourful traditional dresses and headscarves. All sorts of items were on sale - clothes, toiletries, grocery items, carpets, fridges, car parts etc. Amused ourselves trying on hats. Ran around asking "gdye zhihvotnaye?" (where are the animals?) as we wanted to see the camels for sale, but it seemed to be closed by the time we got there. Cabbed back into town to the Arch of Neutrality - a huge, crazy spaceship-like monument with a gold statue of Niyazov (former president) on top, which revolves to face the sun. Caught an elevator to the top for views over the vast, empty, tree-lined boulevards and grand government buildings. Ashgabat has been an unexpected highlight - very bizarre and over the top but in a likeable way, although if I were a local not sure I would approve on government money being spent on crazy monuments and massive shiny apartment blocks which no local can afford. It is totally different from Iran even though it is so close. Very modern and huge but empty, as if it is ready to take the entire population of Turkmenistan (6m). It is a shame however that we didn't get to speak to the locals to get a feel of everyday life. The British pub was a real letdown - despite signs advertising Fosters etc. they only served Baltika (Russian beer), not even local brew. Ended up at a restaurant where Jeremy tried the pickup lines from our Russian phrasebook. Had a rest back at the hotel then walked to "The Plunger", another ludicrous monument, surrounded by statues. Had dinner at an expensive restaurant at the top of a deserted shopping mall/fountain. Of course Anna and Marcus walked in just as we were starting our meal. After dinner we went up to the top floor where there was a bar (empty) and open air balcony where we got a night time view of Ashgabat.

Food: pizza-like thing with mince meat and onions at the bazaar, and Turkmen Cola (flat coke). Manti (large pelmeni) with sour cream and chicken and rice, Turkmen vodka.

12th September 2008

Summary: Darvaza gas crater

Finally found an internet cafe but it was painfully slow, and had a quick wander around the Russian Bazaar. Left in the early afternoon for the long drive through the Karakum Desert to the gas crater. Had a quick stop at the giant Ruhnama book (this is a bit like Mao's little red book - www.rukhnama.com). Today is the anniversary of when writing was completed so they were setting up for a celebration. Stopped in the small rural town of Jerbent for dinner. It was dark by the time we made it to the crater. The crater was formed by an explosion during Soviet gas exploration 50 years ago, somehow caught on fire 20 years ago, and has been burning ever since. It is 55m in diameter and 40m deep. We could see a faint glow in the distance well before we got there. Climbed a small hill for a direct view into the crater. It was an apocalyptic sight. Walked down to within 5m of the edge and took silly silhouette photos, and tried not to inhale the fumes too much. Maksat had a fire going by the time we returned to the camp site for a late night snack of tea and biscuits.

Practicalities: camping

Food: comca (samosa-type thing), lamb shashlyk

13th September 2008

Summary: Konye-Urgench, border crossing to Uzbekistan

I slept surprisingly well while G was still suffering due to his back. Woke up early to watch the sun rise over the crater. The road to Konye-Urgench deteriorated rapidly and we spent most of the trip in a cloud of dust. Konye-Urgench was once the centre of the Islamic world, though is now a rather sparse collection of mausoleums and minarets in varying states of decay. The Turkmenistan/Uzbekistan border crossing was still lengthy but less painful than the Turkmenistan/Iran crossing. A very well-informed Turkmen guard went through our passports saying, "Australia! Kangaroos! Sydney! Olympics!" "Great Britain! Tony Blair!" "Switzerland! Watches!". Anna's good command of Russian also helped. After lots of negotiation (by Anna) the 5 of us squeezed into a car for Nukus. Here we changed some money, parted ways with Jeremy, and negotiated another long ride to Khiva. Faces in Uzbekistan are even more oriental than Turkmenistan. I would almost blend in if I dressed like a local. Our driver did not know where our hotel was and stopped to ask the local police who actually escorted us the rest of the way. The hotel was full but they took us to a family home nearby which rented out a few small rooms. Went for an evening walk around Khiva in search of food. It reminded me of our night-time stroll around Avignon (an Islamic version). There were quiet alleys opening onto courtyards with lots of sandstone coloured buildings and blue-tiled minarets and arches. It looked amazing and we were looking forward to exploring it in the daytime. The friendly locals helped us find a restaurant which was still open, and had some tea and fruit back at the house with Anna and Marcus.

Practicalities: car from border to Nukus ($13, 30min), car from Nukus to Khiva ($50, 2 1/4 hrs)

Food: meat pies (Turkmen-style) at a road-side restaurant, vegetable and rice soup.

14th September

Summary: Khiva

We have been getting too accustomed to the prices in Iran and Turkmenistan as we were outraged to pay $7 each as entry fee to all the monuments inside the city walls. Still, we coughed up and went to explore the palaces, museums and mosques. Uzbekistan is much more touristy than Iran and Turkmenistan (we could not even find postcards in the latter) so we don't stand out quite so much here. G was wiped out with a stomach bug in the afternoon. I went to the bazaar to find some food and managed to have a bottle of water stolen by a cheeky little girl. She also stole my LP and phrasebook temporarily but returned them. Went for a walk around the city walls.

Food: more comcas, digestive biscuits for G, home-cooked plov at the hotel (hopefully).